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  • Odor (Smell or a Scent)

    An odor (American English) or odour (Commonwealth Englishsee spelling differences) is a smell or a scent caused by one or more volatilized chemical compounds generally found in low concentrations that humans and many animals can perceive via their olfactory system. While smell can refer to pleasant and unpleasant odors, the terms scentaroma, and fragrance are usually reserved for pleasant-smelling odors and are frequently used in the food and cosmetic industry to describe floral scents or to refer to perfumes.

    Odor physiology

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    Odor control covers at a sewage treatment plant: Under these covers, grit and gravel are settled out of the wastewater.

    Sense of smell

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    The perception of odors, or sense of smell, is mediated by the olfactory nerve. The olfactory receptor (OR) cells are neurons present in the olfactory epithelium, which is a small patch of tissue at the back of the nasal cavity. There are millions of olfactory receptor neurons that act as sensory signaling cells. Each neuron has cilia in direct contact with the air. Odorous molecules bind to receptor proteins extending from cilia and act as a chemical stimulus, initiating electric signals that travel along the olfactory nerve’s axons to the brain.[1]

    When an electrical signal reaches a threshold, the neuron fires, which sends a signal traveling along the axon to the olfactory bulb, a part of the limbic system of the brain. Interpretation of the smell begins there, relating the smell to past experiences and in relation to the substance(s) inhaled. The olfactory bulb acts as a relay station connecting the nose to the olfactory cortex in the brain. Olfactory information is further processed and forwarded to the central nervous system (CNS), which controls emotions and behavior as well as basic thought processes.

    Odor sensation usually depends on the concentration (number of molecules) available to the olfactory receptors. A single odorant is usually recognized by many receptors. Different odorants are recognized by combinations of receptors. The patterns of neuron signals help to identify the smell. The olfactory system does not interpret a single compound, but instead the whole odorous mix. This does not correspond to the concentration or intensity of any single constituent.[2][3]

    Most odors consist of organic compounds, although some simple compounds not containing carbon, such as hydrogen sulfide and ammonia, are also odorants. The perception of an odor effect is a two-step process. First, there is the physiological part. This is the detection of stimuli by receptors in the nose. The stimuli are recognized by the region of the human brain which handles olfaction. Because of this, an objective and analytical measure of odor is impossible. While odor feelings are personal perceptions, individual reactions are usually related. They relate to things such as gender, age, state of health, and personal history.

    Smell acuity by age and Gender

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    The ability to identify odor varies among people and decreases with age. Studies claim that there are sex differences in odor discrimination, and that women usually outperform men.[4] Conversely, there are some studies claiming a male advantage.[5][6][7] A 2019 meta-analysis claimed that the differences in olfaction are extremely small, but confirmed a small advantage for women.[8]

    Pregnant women have increased smell sensitivity, sometimes resulting in abnormal taste and smell perceptions, leading to food cravings or aversions.[9] The ability to taste also decreases with age as the sense of smell tends to dominate the sense of taste. Chronic smell problems are reported in small numbers for those in their mid-twenties, with numbers increasing steadily, with overall sensitivity beginning to decline in the second decade of life, and then deteriorating appreciably as age increases, especially once over 70 years of age.[10]

    Smell acuity compared to other animals

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    Two dogs sniffing each other

    For most untrained individuals, the act of smelling acquires little information concerning the specific ingredients of an odor. Their smell perception primarily offers information that elicits an emotional response.[citation needed] Experienced individuals, however, such as flavorists and perfumers, can identify discrete chemicals in complex mixtures using only their sense of smell.

    Odor perception is a primary evolutionary sense. The sense of smell can induce pleasure or subconsciously warn of danger, which may, for example, help to locate mates, find food, or detect predators. Humans have an unusually good sense of smell considering they have only 350 functional olfactory receptor genes compared to the 1,300 found in mice, for example. This is despite an apparent evolutionary decline in the sense of smell.[11][12] The human sense of smell is comparable with many animals, able to distinguish between a diverse range of odors. Studies have reported that humans can distinguish in the region of one trillion unique aromas.[13][14]

    Habituation or adaptation

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    Odors that a person is used to, such as their own body odor, are less noticeable than uncommon odors. This is due to “habituation.” After continuous odor exposure, the sense of smell is fatigued, but recovers if the stimulus is removed for a time.[15] Odors can change due to environmental conditions: for example, odors tend to be more distinguishable in cool dry air.[16]

    Habituation affects the ability to distinguish odors after continuous exposure. The sensitivity and ability to discriminate odors diminishes with exposure, and the brain tends to ignore continuous stimulus and focus on differences and changes in a particular sensation. When odorants are mixed, a habitual odorant is blocked. This depends on the strength of the odorants in the mixture, which can change the perception and processing of an odor. This process helps classify similar odors as well as adjust sensitivity to differences in complex stimuli.[17]

    Genetic component

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    The primary gene sequences for thousands of olfactory receptors are known for the genomes of more than a dozen organisms. They are seven-helix-turn transmembrane proteins. But there are no known structures for any olfactory receptor. There is a conserved sequence in roughly three quarters of all ORs. This is a tripodal metal-ion binding site,[18] and Suslick has proposed that the ORs are in fact metalloproteins (most likely with zinc, copper, and manganese ions) that serve as a Lewis Acid site for the binding of many odorant molecules. In 1978, Crabtree suggested that Cu(I) is “the most likely candidate for a metallo-receptor site in olfaction” of strong-smelling volatiles. These are also good metal-coordinating ligands, such as thiols.[19] In 2012, Zhuang, Matsunami, and Block confirmed the Crabtree/Suslick proposal for the specific case of a mouse OR, MOR244-3, showing that copper is essential for detection of certain thiols and other sulfur-containing compounds. Thus, by using a chemical that binds to copper in the mouse nose, so that copper was not available to the receptors, the authors showed that the mice could not detect the thiols without the copper. However, these authors also found that MOR244-3 lacks the specific metal ion binding site suggested by Suslick, instead showing a different motif in the EC2 domain.[20]

    Evolutionary impact

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    Gordon Shepherd proposed that the retro-nasal route of olfaction (odorants introduced to the olfactory mucosa through the oral cavity often as food) was partially responsible for the development of human olfactory acuity. He suggested the evolutionary pressure of diversification of food sources and increased complexity of food preparation presented humans with a broader range of odorants, ultimately leading to a “richer repertoire of smells”. Animals such as dogs show a greater sensitivity to odors than humans, especially in studies using short-chain compounds. Higher cognitive brain mechanisms and more olfactory brain regions enable humans to discriminate odors better than other mammals despite fewer olfactory receptor genes.[21]

    Measuring techniques

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    Concentration

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    Odor concentration refers to an odor’s pervasiveness. To measure odor sensation, an odor is diluted to a detection or recognition threshold. The detection threshold is the concentration of an odor in air when 50% of a population can distinguish between the odorous sample and an odor-free reference sample. The recognition odor threshold is usually a factor of two to five higher than the detection threshold.[22]

    The measurement of odor concentration is the most widespread method to quantify odors. It is standardized in CEN EN 13725:2003.[23] The method is based on dilution of an odor sample to the odor threshold. The numerical value of the odor concentration is equal to the dilution factor that is necessary to reach the odor threshold. Its unit is the “European Odour Unit”, OUE. Therefore, the odor concentration at the odor threshold is 1 OUE by definition.

    Olfactometer

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    To establish odor concentration, an olfactometer is used which employs a group of human panelists. A diluted odorous mixture and an odor-free gas—n-Butanol—as a reference are presented from sniffing ports to a group of panelists who are sensitive in odor perception. To collect an odor sample, the samples are collected using specialized sample bags, which are made from an odor free material, e.g., Teflon. The most accepted technique for collecting odor samples is the lung technique, where the sample bag is placed in a sealed drum, where a vacuum is created outside the bag, which fills under expansion, and draws into itself the sample from the source. Critically, all components which touch the odor sample, must be odor free, which includes lines and fittings.

    In comparing the odor emitted from each port, the panelists are asked to report if they can detect a difference between the ports. The gas-diluting ratio is then decreased by a factor of 1.4 or two (i.e., the concentration is increased accordingly). The panelists are asked to repeat the test. This continues until the panelists respond with certainty and correctly twice in a row. These responses are used to calculate the concentration of the odor in terms of European odor units (OUE/m3, where 1 OUE/m3≡40 ppb/v n-butanol).[24]

    Humans can discriminate between two odorants that differ in concentration by as little as 7%.[25] A human’s odor detection threshold is variable. Repeated exposure to an odorant leads to enhanced olfactory sensitivity and decreased detection thresholds for a number of different odorants.[26] It was found in a study that humans who were unable to detect the odor of androstenone developed the ability to detect it after repeated exposure.[27] People who cannot smell are said to be anosmic.

    There are a number of issues which have to be overcome with sampling, these include:

    1. If the source is under vacuum
    2. if the source is at a high temperature
    3. If the source has high humidity

    Issues such as temperature and humidity are best overcome using either pre-dilution or dynamic dilution techniques.

    Other analytical methods

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    Other analytic methods can be subdivided into the physical, the gas chromatographical, and the chemosensory method.

    When measuring odor, there is a difference between emission and immission measurements. Emission measurement can be taken by olfactometry using an olfactometer to dilute the odor sample. Olfactometry is rarely used for immission measurement because of low odor concentrations involved. The same measuring principles are used, but the judgment of the air-assay happens without diluting the samples.

    Odor measurement is essential for odor regulation and control.[28] An odor emission often consists of a complex mixture of many odorous compounds. Analytical monitoring of individual chemical compounds present in such an odor is usually not practical. As a result, odor sensory methods, instead of instrumental methods, are normally used to measure such odor. Odor sensory methods are available to monitor odor both from source emissions and in the ambient air. These two contexts require different approaches for measuring odor. The collection of odor samples is more easily accomplished for a source emission than for odor in the ambient air.[29]

    Field measurement with portable field olfactometers can seem more effective, but olfactometer use is not regulated in Europe, while it is popular in the U.S. and Canada, where several states set limits at the receptor sites or along the perimeter of odor-emitting plants, expressed in units of dilution-to-threshold (D/T).[30]

    Intensity

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    Odor intensity refers to the perceived strength of an odor sensation. This intensity property is used to locate the source of odors and perhaps most directly related to odor nuisance.[3]

    The perceived strength of an odor is measured alongside its concentration and can be mathematically modeled using the Weber-Fechner law: I = a × log(c) + b,[31] where:

    • I represents the perceived psychological intensity at a given dilution step on the butanol scale,
    • a is the Weber-Fechner coefficient,
    • C is the chemical concentration, and
    • b is the intercept constant (0.5 by definition).[31]

    Odor intensity can be expressed using an odor intensity scale, which is a verbal description of an odor sensation to which a numerical value is assigned.[31]

    Odor intensity can be divided into the following categories according to intensity:0 – no odor1 – very weak (odor threshold)2 – weak3 – distinct4 – strong5 – very strong6 – intolerable

    Odor intensity is determined in a laboratory by specialists who have been trained to accurately define intensity.

    Hedonic tone assessment

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    Hedonic assessment is the process of rating odors according to a scale ranging from extremely unpleasant to extremely pleasant. Intensity and hedonic tone, whilst similar, refer to different things: that is, the strength of the odor (intensity) and the pleasantness of an odor (hedonic tone). The perception of an odor may change from pleasant to unpleasant with increasing concentration, intensity, time, frequency, or previous experience with a specific odor—all factors in determining a response.[32]

    FIDOL factors

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    The overall set of qualities are sometimes identified as the “FIDOL (Frequency, Intensity, Duration, Offensiveness, Location) factors”.[33]

    The character of an odor is a critical element in assessing an odor. This property is the ability to distinguish different odors and is only descriptive. First, a basic description is used—such as sweet, pungent, acrid, fragrant, warm, dry, or sour. The odor is then referenced to a source such as sewage or apple which can then be followed by a reference to a specific chemical such as acids or gasoline.[3]

    Most commonly, a set of standard descriptors is used, which may range from “fragrant” to “sewer odor”.[34] Although the method is fairly simplistic, it is important for the FIDOL factors to be understood by the person rating the smell. This method is most commonly used to define the character of an odor which can then be compared to other odors. It is common for olfactometry laboratories to report character as an additional factor post sample-analysis.

    Categorization

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    Different categorizations of primary odors have been proposed, including the following, which identifies 7 primary odors:[22][35][36]

    1. Musky – perfumes
    2. Putrid – rotten eggs
    3. Pungent – vinegar
    4. Camphoraceous – mothballs
    5. Ethereal – dry cleaning fluid
    6. Floral – roses (see also floral scent)
    7. Pepperminty – mint gum

    Though the concept of primary odors is not universally accepted.[36]

    Interpretive dispersion modeling

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    In many countries odor modeling is used to determine the extent of an impact from an odor source. These are a function of modeled concentration, averaging time (over what time period the model steps are run over, typically hourly), and a percentile. Percentiles refer to a statistical representation of how many hours per year the concentration C may be exceeded based on the averaging period.

    Sampling from area sources

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    There are two main odor sampling techniques: direct and indirect odor sampling techniques.

    Direct sampling

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    Direct refers to the placement of an enclosure on or over an emitting surface from which samples are collected, and an odor emission rate is determined.

    The most commonly used direct methods include the flux chamber[37] and wind tunnels such as the one at the University of New South Wales (UNSW).[38] There are many other available techniques, and consideration should be given to a number of factors before selecting a suitable method.

    A source which has implications for this method are sources, such as bark bed biofilters, that have a vertical velocity component. For such sources, consideration must be given as to the most appropriate method. A commonly used technique is to measure the odor concentration at the emitting surface, and combine this with the volumetric flow rate of air entering the biofilter to produce an emission rate.

    Indirect sampling

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    Indirect sampling is often referred to as back calculation. It involves the use of a mathematical formula to predict an emission rate.

    Many methods are used, but all make use of the same inputs which include surface roughness, upwind and downwind concentrations, stability class (or other similar factor), wind speed, and wind direction.

    Health risks

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    This section needs additional citations for verification. Please help improve this article by adding citations to reliable sources in this section. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed.
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    The human sense of smell is a primary factor in the sensation of comfort. Olfaction as a sensory system brings awareness of the presence of airborne chemicals. Some inhaled chemicals are volatile compounds that act as a stimulus, triggering unwanted reactions such as nose, eye, and throat irritation. Perception of odor and of irritation is unique to each person, and varies because of physical conditions or memory of past exposures to similar chemicals. A person’s specific threshold, before an odor becomes a nuisance, depends also on the frequency, concentration, and duration of an odor.

    The perception of irritation from odor sensation is hard to investigate because exposure to a volatile chemical elicits a different response based on sensory and physiological signals, and interpretation of these signals is influenced by experience, expectations, personality, or situational factors. Volatile organic compounds (VOCs) may have higher concentrations in confined indoor environments, due to restricted infiltration of fresh air, as compared to the outdoor environment, leading to greater potential for toxic health exposures from a variety of chemical compounds. Health effects of odor are traced to the sensation of an odor or the odorant itself. Health effects and symptoms vary—including eye, nose, or throat irritation, cough, chest tightness, drowsiness, and mood change—all of which decrease as an odor ceases. Odors may also trigger illnesses such as asthma, depression, stress-induced illness, or hypersensitivity. The ability to perform tasks may decrease, and other social/behavioral changes may occur.

    Occupants should expect remediation from disturbing and unexpected odors that disturb concentration, diminish productivity, evoke symptoms, and generally increase the dislike for a particular environment. It is important to set occupational exposure limits (OELs) to ensure the health and safety of workers, as well as comfort, because exposure to chemicals can elicit physiological and biochemical changes in the upper respiratory system. Standards are hard to set when exposures are not reported and can also be hard to measure. Workforce populations vary in terms of discomfort from odors because of exposure history or habituation, and they may not realize possible risks of exposure to chemicals that produce specific odors.[39][40]

    Types

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    This section needs additional citations for verification. Please help improve this article by adding citations to reliable sources in this section. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed.
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    Some odors are sought after, such as from perfumes and flowers, some of which command high prices. Whole industries have developed around products that remove or mask unpleasant odors, such as deodorant.

    Odor molecules transmit messages to the limbic system, the area of the brain that governs emotional responses. Some believe that these messages have the power to alter moods, evoke distant memories, raise spirits, and boost self-confidence. This belief has led to “aromatherapy“, wherein fragrances are claimed to cure a wide range of psychological and physical problems. Aromatherapy claims that fragrances can positively affect sleep, stress, alertness, social interaction, and general feelings of well-being. Evidence for the effectiveness of aromatherapy is mostly anecdotal and controlled scientific studies to substantiate its claims are lacking.

    Some people are allergic to the fragrances found in perfume, scented shampoo, scented deodorant, or similar products. Reactions, as with other chemical allergies, can range from slight headaches to anaphylactic shock, which can result in death.[citation needed]

    Unpleasant odors play various roles in nature, often to warn of danger, though this may not be known to the subject who smells it.[41] The natural gas industry uses odor to enable consumers to identify leaks. Natural gas in its native state is colorless and almost odorless. To help users detect leaks, an odorizer with the scent of rotten eggs, tert-Butylthiol (t-butyl mercaptan), is added. Sometimes a related compound, thiophane, may be used in the mixture.

    An odor that is viewed as unpleasant by some people or cultures can be viewed as attractive by others where it is more familiar or has a better reputation.[41] It is commonly thought that those exuding an unpleasant body odor are unattractive to others. But studies have shown that a person who is exposed to a particular unpleasant odor can be attracted to others who have been exposed to the same unpleasant odor.[41] This includes odors associated with pollution.[41]

    What causes a substance to smell unpleasant may be different from what one perceives. For example, perspiration is often viewed as having an unpleasant odor, but it is odorless. It is bacteria in the perspiration that causes the odor.[42]

    Unpleasant odors can arise from specific industrial processes, adversely affecting workers and even residents downwind of the source. The most common sources of industrial odor arise from sewage treatment plants, refineries, animal rendering factories, and industries processing chemicals (such as sulfur) which have odorous characteristics. Sometimes industrial odor sources are the subject of community controversy and scientific analysis.

    Body odor is present both in animals and humans and its intensity can be influenced by many factors (behavioral patterns, survival strategies). Body odor has a strong genetic basis both in animals and humans, but it can be also strongly influenced by various diseases and psychological conditions.

    Study

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    The study of odors is a growing field but is a complex and difficult one. The human olfactory system can detect many thousands of scents based on only minute airborne concentrations of a chemical. The sense of smell of many animals is even better. Some fragrant flowers give off odor plumes that move downwind and are detectable by bees more than a kilometer away.

    The study of odors is complicated by the complex chemistry taking place at the moment of a smell sensation. For example, iron-containing metallic objects are perceived to have a distinctive odor when touched, although iron’s vapor pressure is negligible. According to a 2006 study, this smell is the result of aldehydes (for example, nonanal) and ketones1-octen-3-one) released from the human skin on contact with ferrous ions that are formed in the sweat-mediated corrosion of iron. The same chemicals are also associated with the smell of blood, as ferrous iron in blood on skin produces the same reaction.[43]

    Pheromones

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    Pheromones are odors that are used for communication, and are sometimes called “airborne hormones”. A female moth may release a pheromone that can entice a male moth that is several kilometers downwind. Honeybee queens constantly release pheromones that regulate the activity of the hive. Worker bees can release such smells to call other bees into an appropriate cavity when a swarm moves into new quarters, or to “sound” an alarm when the hive is threatened.

    Advanced technology

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    Most artificial or electronic nose instruments work by combining output from an array of non-specific chemical sensors to produce a fingerprint of whatever volatile chemicals in the local environment.[44] Most electronic noses need to be “trained” to recognize chemicals of interest before it can be used.[45][46] Many current electronic-nose instruments suffer from problems with reproducibility subject to varying ambient temperature and humidity. An example of this type of technology is the colorimetric sensor array, which visualizes odor through color change and creates a “picture” of it.[47][48]

    Behavioral cues

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    Odor perception is a complex process involving the central nervous system and can evoke psychological and physiological responses. Because the olfactory signal terminates in or near the amygdala, odors are strongly linked to memories and can evoke emotions. The amygdala participates in the hedonic or emotional processing of olfactory stimuli.[49] Odors can disturb our concentration, diminish productivity, evoke symptoms, and in general increase a dislike for an environment. Odors can impact the liking for a person, place, food, or product as a form of conditioning.[50] Memories recalled by odors are significantly more emotional and evocative than those recalled by the same cue presented visually or auditorily.[51] Odors can become conditioned to experiential states and when later encountered have directional influences on behavior. Doing a frustrating task in a scented room decreases performance of other cognitive tasks in the presence of the same odor.[52] Nonhuman animals communicate their emotional states through changes in body odor, and human body odors are indicative of emotional state.[53]

    Human body odors influence interpersonal relationships and are involved in adaptive behaviors, such as parental attachment in infants or partner choice in adults. “Mothers can discriminate the odor of their own child, and infants recognize and prefer the body odor of their mother over that of another woman. This maternal odor appears to guide infants toward the breast and to have a calming effect.”[citation needed] Body odor is involved in the development of infant–mother attachment and is essential to a child’s social and emotional development and evokes feelings of security. Reassurance created by familiar parental body odors may contribute significantly to the attachment process.[54] Human body odors can also affect mate choice. Fragrances are commonly used to raise sexual attractiveness and induce sexual arousal. Researchers found that people choose perfume that interacts well with their body odor.[55]

    Body odor is a sensory cue critical for mate selection in humans because it is a signal of immunological health. Women prefer men with major histocompatibility complex (MHC) genotypes and odor different from themselves especially during ovulation. Different MHC alleles are favorable because different allele combinations would maximize disease protection and minimize recessive mutations in offspring. Biologically females tend to select mates “who are most likely to secure offspring survival and thus increase the likelihood that her genetic contribution will be reproductively viable.”[56]

    Studies have suggested that people might be using odor cues associated with the immune system to select mates. Using a brain-imaging technique, Swedish researchers have shown that gay and straight males’ brains respond in different ways to two odors that may be involved in sexual arousal, and that the gay men respond in the same way as straight women, though it could not be determined whether this was cause or effect. The study was expanded to include lesbian women; the results were consistent with previous findings that lesbian women were not as responsive to male-identified odors, while their response to female cues was similar to that of straight males.[57] According to the researchers, this research suggests a possible role for human pheromones in the biological basis of sexual orientation.[58]

    An odor can cue recall of a distant memory. Most memories that pertain to odor come from the first decade of life, compared to verbal and visual memories which usually come from the 10th to 30th years of life.[59] Odor-evoked memories are more emotional, associated with stronger feelings of being brought back in time, and have been thought of less often as compared to memories evoked by other cues.[59]

    Use in design

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    Further information: Visual merchandising § Scent

    The sense of smell is not overlooked as a way of marketing products. The deliberate and controlled application of scent is used by designers, scientists, artists, perfumers, architects, and chefs. Some applications of scents in environments are in casinos, hotels, private clubs, and new automobiles. For example, “technicians at New York City’s Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center disperse vanilla-scented oil into the air to help patients cope with the claustrophobic effects of MRI testing. Scents are used at the Chicago Board of Trade to lower the decibel level on the trading floor.”[60]

    If ingredients are listed on a product, the term “fragrance” can be used in a general sense.

    Scent preferences

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    Effect of perfume on sexual attractiveness

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    Both men and women use perfume to boost their sexual attractiveness to members of the opposite, or same, sex. When people find that a particular perfume or aftershave is perceived positively, they may be hard-pressed to change it. Olfactory communication is natural in humans. Without perfume or aftershave, humans unconsciously detect people’s natural scents: in the form of pheromones. Pheromones are usually detected unconsciously, and it is believed that they have an important influence on human’s social and sexual behaviour.[61] There are a number of hypotheses concerning why humans wear perfume or aftershave, and whether it amplifies or reduces their natural scents.

    In 2001, a study found that the major histocompatibility complex (MHC) (a polymorphic set of genes which is important for immune-function in humans) is correlated with the ingredients found in perfume. This suggests that humans do, in fact, choose perfumes that complement or enhance their natural scents (their pheromones). This evidence offers support for the hypothesis that perfume is chosen by individuals to advertise their physical health. Research suggests that this advertisement of good health will, in fact, enhance females’ attractiveness to the opposite sex as health markers have been shown to do.[62] While strong evidence has been found to support the hypothesis that wearing perfume enhances females’ attractiveness to males, little research has been done into the effect of fragrance on males’ attractiveness to females. Considerably more research has covered the effect of males’ natural odor and females’ ratings of attractiveness. Many studies[63] found that odor predicted attractiveness when female raters were not on any form of contraceptive pill. For those who were, there was no relation between attractiveness and body odor.

    A person’s odor can increase or decrease ratings of attractiveness because the olfactory receptors in the brain are directly linked with the limbic system, the part of the brain that is thought to be most involved with emotion. This link is important, because if an individual associates positive affect (elicited by pheromones[64]), with a potential mate, their liking for, and attraction to, that potential mate will be increased.[65] Although not a typically evolutionary hypothesis, this hypothesis is one that acknowledges how humans have adapted their mating strategies to modern-day societal norms.

    Major histocompatibility complex (MHC) and body odor preferences

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    Major histocompatibility complex (MHC) is a genotype found in vertebrates, including humans. MHC is thought to contribute to mate choice in animals and humans. In sexual selection, females opt for mates with an MHC which differs from their own, optimising genes for their offspring.[66] The “heterozygote advantage” and “Red Queen” explanations for these findings fall under the “pathogen hypothesis”. Due to differences in MHC alleles‘ resistance to pathogens, a preference for mates with a dissimilar MHC composition has been argued to act as a mechanism to avoid infectious diseases. According to the heterozygotes-advantage hypothesis, diversity within the MHC genotype is beneficial for the immune system due to a greater range of antigens available to the host. Therefore, the hypothesis proposes that MHC heterozygotes will be superior to MHC homozygotes in fighting off pathogens. Experimental research has shown mixed findings for this idea.[67] The “Red Queen” or “rare-allele” hypothesis suggests that diversity in the MHC gene provides a moving target for pathogens, making it more difficult for them to adapt to MHC genotypes in the host.[68] Another hypothesis suggests that preferences for MHC-dissimilar mates could serve to avoid inbreeding.[69]

    Body odor can provide MHC information. Although less is known about how odor is influenced by MHC genes, possible explanations have been that microbial flora[70] or volatile acids[71] are affected by the gene, which can be detected in body odor. Female mice and humans have both shown odor preferences for males with MHC-dissimilarity.[72] Research has shown that women prefer the scent of men with dissimilar MHC genes. In a study, women rated the scent of T-shirts, worn over two nights by men, as more pleasant when smelling those of MHC-dissimilar men.[73] It has also been found that women were reminded more of current or prior partners when smelling odors from men whose MHC was dissimilar to their own. A study of married couples found that MHC haplotypes differed between spouses more than chance would dictate.[74] Taking oral contraceptives has been found to reverse the MHC-dissimilarity odor preference.[75]

    Women’s scent preferences and the menstrual cycle

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    Women’s preferences for body odor change with their menstrual cycles.[76] The ovulatory-shift hypothesis argues that women experience elevated immediate sexual attraction, relative to low-fertile days of the cycle, to men with characteristics that reflect good genetic quality.[77] As certain body odors can reflect good genetic quality, woman are more likely to prefer these scents when they are fertile, as this is when they are most likely to produce offspring with any potential mates, with conception-risk being related to a preference for the scent of male symmetry.[76] Men also prefer the scent of women at their fertile cycle points.[78]

    There are several scents that reflect good genetic quality that females prefer during the most fertile phase of their cycles. Women prefer the scent of symmetrical men more during the fertile phases of their menstrual cycle than during their infertile phases,[79] with estrogen positively predicting women’s preferences for the scent of symmetry.[80] Women’s preferences for masculine faces is greatest when their fertility is at its highest,[79] and so is the preference for attractive faces.[81] Other scents found to be preferred by women in the most fertile phase of their cycle are the scent for developmental stability.[82]

    If women are taking a contraceptive pill the changes in mate scent preferences over the menstrual cycle are not expressed.[83] If odor plays a role in human mate choice then the contraceptive pill could disrupt disassortative mate preferences.[84] Those taking a contraceptive pill show no significant preference for the scent of either symmetrical or asymmetrical men, whereas normally cycling women prefer the scent of shirts worn by symmetrical men.[85] Males’ preferences for women’s scent may also change if the woman is taking oral contraceptives. When women take a contraceptive pill, this has been found to demolish the cycle attractiveness of odors that men find attractive in normally ovulating women.[86] Therefore, a contraceptive pill affects both women’s preferences for scent and also affects their own scents, making their scent less attractive to males than the scent of normally cycling women.

  • Perfume (Fragrant Essential)

    Perfume (UK/ˈpɜːfjuːm/US/pərˈfjuːm/ ) is a mixture of fragrant essential oils or aroma compounds (fragrances), fixatives and solvents, usually in liquid form, used to give the human body, animals, food, objects, and living-spaces an agreeable scent.[1] Perfumes can be defined as substances that emit and diffuse a pleasant and fragrant odor. They consist of manmade mixtures of aromatic chemicals and essential oils. The 1939 Nobel Laureate for Chemistry, Leopold Ružička stated in 1945 that “right from the earliest days of scientific chemistry up to the present time, perfumes have substantially contributed to the development of organic chemistry as regards methods, systematic classification, and theory.”[2]

    Ancient texts and archaeological excavations show the use of perfumes in some of the earliest human civilizations. Modern perfumery began in the late 19th century with the commercial synthesis of aroma compounds such as vanillin or coumarin, which allowed for the composition of perfumes with smells previously unattainable solely from natural aromatics.

    History

    [edit]

    Main article: History of perfume

    Egyptian scene depicting the preparation of lily perfume, 4th century BC

    The word perfume is derived from the Latin perfumare, meaning “to smoke through”.[3] Perfumery, as the art of making perfumes, began in ancient MesopotamiaEgypt, the Indus Valley civilization and possibly Ancient China.[4] It was further refined by the Romans and the Muslims.[citation needed]

    One of the world’s first-recorded chemists is considered to be a woman named Tapputi, a perfume maker mentioned in a cuneiform tablet from the 2nd millennium BC in Mesopotamia.[5] She distilled flowers, oil, and calamus with other aromatics, then filtered and put them back in the still several times.[6]

    On the Indian subcontinent, perfume and perfumery existed in the Indus civilization (3300 BC – 1300 BC).[7]

    A Byzantine alembic used to distill perfumes
    Ancient Egyptian perfume vessel in shape of a monkey; 1550–1295 BC; faience; height: 6.5 cm, width: 3.3 cm, depth: 3.8 cm; Metropolitan Museum of Art (New York City)

    In 2003,[8] archaeologists uncovered what are believed[by whom?] to be the world’s oldest surviving perfumes in PyrgosCyprus. The perfumes dated back more than 4,000 years. They were discovered in an ancient perfumery, a 300-square-meter (3,230 sq ft) factory[8] housing at least 60 stills, mixing bowls, funnels, and perfume bottles. In ancient times people used herbs and spices, such as almondcoriandermyrtleconifer resin, and bergamot, as well as flowers.[9] In May 2018, an ancient perfume “Rodo” (Rose) was recreated for the Greek National Archaeological Museum’s anniversary show “Countless Aspects of Beauty”, allowing visitors to approach antiquity through their olfaction receptors.[10] Romans and Greek extracted perfumes from diverse sources such as flowers, woods, seeds, roots, saps, gums. A temple to Athena in Elis, near Olympia, was said to have saffron blended into its wall plaster, allowing the interior to remain fragrant for 500 years.[11]

    In the 9th century the Arab chemist Al-Kindi (Alkindus) wrote the Book of the Chemistry of Perfume and Distillations, which contained more than a hundred recipes for fragrant oilssalves, aromatic waters, and substitutes or imitations of costly drugs. The book also described 107 methods and recipes for perfume-making and perfume-making equipment, such as the alembic (which still bears its Arabic name.[12][13] [from Greek ἄμβιξ, “cup”, “beaker”][14][15] described by Synesius in the 4th century[16]).

    The Persian chemist Ibn Sina (also known as Avicenna) introduced the process of extracting oils from flowers by means of distillation, the procedure most commonly used today. He first experimented with the rose. Until his discovery, liquid perfumes consisted of mixtures of oil and crushed herbs or petals, which made a strong blend. Rose water was more delicate, and immediately became popular. Both the raw ingredients and the distillation technology significantly influenced western perfumery and scientific developments, particularly chemistry.

    There is a controversy on whether perfumery was completely lost in Western Europe after the fall of the Western Roman Empire. That said, the art of perfumery in Western Europe was reinvigorated after the Islamic invasion of Spain and Southern Italy in 711 and 827. The Islamic controlled cities of Spain (Al-Andalus) became major producers of perfumes that were traded throughout the Old World. Like in the ancient world, Andalusians used fragrance in devotion to God. Perfumes added a layer of cleanliness that was needed for their devotion. Andalusian women were also offered greater freedoms than women in other Muslim controlled regions and were allowed to leave their homes and socialize outside. This freedom allowed courtship to occur outside of the home. As a result, Andalusian women used perfumes for courtship.[17]

    Recipes of perfumes from the monks of Santa Maria Delle Vigne or Santa Maria Novella of Florence, Italy, were recorded from 1221.[18] In the east, the Hungarians produced around 1370 a perfume made of scented oils blended in an alcohol solution – best known as Hungary Water – at the behest of Queen Elizabeth of Hungary.[19][20][21] The art of perfumery prospered in Renaissance Italy, and in the 16th century the personal perfumer to Catherine de’ Medici (1519–1589), René the Florentine (Renato il fiorentino), took Italian refinements to France. His laboratory was connected with her apartments by a secret passageway, so that no formulae could be stolen en route. Thanks to Rene, France quickly became one of the European centers of perfume and cosmetics manufacture. Cultivation of flowers for their perfume essence, which had begun in the 14th century, grew into a major industry in the south of France.

    Between the 16th and 17th centuries, perfumes were used primarily by the wealthy to mask body odors resulting from infrequent bathing.[22] In 1693, Italian barber Giovanni Paolo Feminis created a perfume water called Aqua Admirabilis,[23] today best known as eau de cologne; his nephew Johann Maria Farina (Giovanni Maria Farina) took over the business in 1732.[24][25]

    By the 18th century the Grasse region of France, Sicily, and Calabria (in Italy) were growing aromatic plants to provide the growing perfume industry with raw materials. Even today, Italy and France remain the center of European perfume design and trade.

    • Ancient Egyptian perfume vase in shape of an amphoriskos; 664–630 BC; glass: 8 cm × 4 cm (3.1 in × 1.6 in); Metropolitan Museum of Art (New York City)
    • Ancient Greek perfume bottle in shape of an athlete binding a victory ribbon around his head; circa 540s BC; Ancient Agora Museum (Athens)
    • Etruscan perfume vase, which is inscribed the word “suthina” (“for the tomb”); early 2nd century BC; bronze; height: 16 cm (6.3 in); Louvre
    • Late Hellenistic glass gold-band mosaic alabastron (perfume bottle); 1st century BC; glass and gold leaf; Metropolitan Museum of Art
    • Roman perfume bottle; 1st century AD; glass; 5.2 cm × 3.8 cm (2.0 in × 1.5 in); Metropolitan Museum of Art
    • Partially broken perfume amphora; 2nd century AD; glass; from EphesusEphesus Archaeological Museum (SelçukTurkey)
    • British Rococo perfume vase; circa 1761; soft-paste porcelain; overall: 43.2 cm × 29.2 cm × 17.8 cm (17.0 in × 11.5 in × 7.0 in); Metropolitan Museum of Art
    • British Neoclassical pair of perfume burners; probably circa 1770; derbyshire spar, tortoiseshell, and wood, Carrara marble base, gilded brass mounts, gilded copper liner; 33 cm × 14.3 cm × 14.3 cm (13.0 in × 5.6 in × 5.6 in); Metropolitan Museum of Art
    • Art Nouveau perfume bottle; circa 1900; glass with gilt metal cover; overall: 13.4 cm (5.3 in); Cleveland Museum of Art (ClevelandOhio, USA)

    Dilution classes and terminologies

    [edit]

    Original Eau de Cologne flacon 1811, from Johann Maria FarinaFarina gegenüber
    Vintage atomizer perfume bottle

    Perfume types reflect the concentration of aromatic compounds in a solvent, which in fine fragrance is typically ethanol or a mix of water and ethanol. Various sources differ considerably in the definitions of perfume types. The intensity and longevity of a fragrance is based on the concentration, intensity, and longevity of the aromatic compounds, or perfume oils, used. As the percentage of aromatic compounds increases, so does the intensity and longevity of the scent. Specific terms are used to describe a fragrance’s approximate concentration by the percent of perfume oil in the volume of the final product. The most widespread terms[26] are:

    • Parfum or Extrait (P): 15–40% aromatic compounds (IFRA: typically ~20%). In English, parfum is also known as perfume extract, pure perfume, or simply perfume.
    • Esprit de parfum (ESdP): 15–30% aromatic compounds, a seldom used strength concentration between EdP and parfum.
    • Eau de parfum (EdP) or Parfum de toilette (PdT): 10–20% aromatic compounds (typically ~15%). It is sometimes called “eau de perfume” or “millésime.”[citation needed] Parfum de toilette is a less common term, most popular in the 1980s, that is generally analogous to eau de parfum.
    • Eau de toilette (EdT): 5–15% aromatic compounds (typically ~10%). This is the staple for most masculine perfumes.
    • Eau de cologne (EdC): 3–8% aromatic compounds (typically ~5%). This concentration is often simply called cologne.
    • Eau fraîche: 3% or less aromatic compounds. This general term encompasses products sold as “splashes,” “mists,” “veils” and other imprecise terms. Such products may be diluted with water rather than oil or alcohol.[26]

    Imprecise terminology

    [edit]

    J.B. Filz in Vienna. Perfumeries with long traditions, such as J.B. Filz, created their own scents.[27]

    The wide range in the percentages of aromatic compounds that may be present in each concentration means that the terminology of extrait, EdP, EdT, and EdC is quite imprecise with regard to oil concentration. Although an EdP will often be more concentrated than an EdT and in turn an EdC, this is not always the case. Different perfumeries or perfume houses assign different amounts of oils to each of their perfumes. Therefore, although the oil concentration of a perfume in EdP dilution will necessarily be higher than the same perfume in EdT from within a company’s same range, the actual amount will vary among companies. An EdT from one house may have a higher concentration of aromatic compounds than an EdP from another.

    Furthermore, some fragrances with the same product name but having a different concentration may not only differ in their dilutions, but actually use different perfume oil mixtures altogether. For instance, in order to make the EdT version of a fragrance brighter and fresher than its EdP, the EdT oil may be “tweaked” to contain slightly more top notes or fewer base notes. Chanel No. 5 is a good example: its parfum, EdP, EdT, and now-discontinued EdC concentrations are in fact different compositions (the parfum dates to 1921, the EdT from the 1950s, and the EdP was not developed until the 1980s). In some cases, words such as extrêmeintense, or concentrée that might indicate a higher aromatic concentration are actually completely different fragrances, related only because of a similar perfume accord. An example of this is Chanel’s Pour Monsieur and Pour Monsieur concentrée. This complexity adds a layer of nuance to the understanding and appreciation of perfumery, where variations in concentration and formulation can significantly alter the olfactory (“the sense of smell”) experience.

    History of the terms and concentrations

    [edit]

    The terms “perfume” and “cologne” lead to much confusion in English. “Perfume” is often used as a generic, overarching term to refer to fragrances marketed to women, regardless of their exact concentration. The term “cologne” is applied to those sold to men. The actual product worn by a woman may be an eau de parfum rather than an extrait, or by a man an eau de toilette rather than an eau de cologne. The reasons why the terms “perfume” and “cologne” are often used in a generic sense is related to the modern development of perfumery in Europe since the 18th century.

    The term “cologne” was first used in Europe in the 18th century to refer to a family of fresh, citrus-based fragrances distilled using extracts from citrus, floral, and woody ingredients. These “classical colognes” were supposedly first developed in Cologne, Germany, hence the name. This type of cologne, which is still in production, describes unisex compositions “which are basically citrus blends and do not have a perfume parent.”[28] Examples include Mäurer & Wirtz’s 4711 (created in 1799), and Guerlain’s Eau de Cologne Impériale (1830). “Toilet water,” or eau de toilette, referred to wide range of scented waters not otherwise known as colognes, and were popular throughout the 19th century.

    The term “perfume” emerged in the late 19th century. The first fragrance labeled a “parfum” extract with a high concentration of aromatic compounds was Guerlain’s Jicky in 1889. In the first half of the 20th century, fragrance companies began offering their products in more than one concentration, often pairing an extrait with a lighter eau de toilette suitable for day wear, which made their products available to a wider range of customers. As this process accelerated, perfume houses borrowed the term “cologne” to refer to an even more diluted interpretation of their fragrances than eau de toilette. Guerlain, for example, offered an eau de cologne version of its flagship perfume Shalimar and many of its other fragrances. In contrast to a classical eau de cologne, this type of modern cologne is a lighter, less concentrated interpretation of a more concentrated product, typically a pure parfum, and is usually the lightest concentration from a line of fragrance products.[28]

    The eau de parfum concentration and terminology is the most recent, being originally developed to offer the radiance of an EdT with the longevity of an extrait. Parfum de toilette and EdP began to appear in the 1970s and gained popularity in the 1980s. In the 21st century, EdP is probably the most widespread strength concentration. It is often the first concentration offered when a new fragrance is launched, and usually referred to generically as “perfume.”[26]

    Historically, women’s fragrances tended to have higher levels of aromatic compounds than men’s fragrances. Fragrances marketed to men were typically sold as EdT or EdC, rarely as EdP or perfume extracts. This is changing in the modern fragrance world, especially as fragrances are becoming more unisex. Women’s fragrances used to be common in all levels of concentration, but in the 21st century are mainly seen in EdP and EdT concentrations. Many modern perfumes are never offered in extrait or eau de cologne formulations, and EdP and EdT account for the vast majority of new launches.[citation needed][29]

    Solvent types

    [edit]

    Perfume oils are often diluted with a solvent, though this is not always the case, and its necessity is disputed. By far the most common solvent for perfume-oil dilution is alcohol, typically a mixture of ethanol and water or a rectified spirit. Perfume oil can also be diluted by means of neutral-smelling oils such as fractionated coconut oil, or liquid waxes such as jojoba oil and almond oil.

    Applying fragrances

    [edit]

    The conventional application of pure perfume (parfum extrait) in Western cultures is behind the ears, at the nape of the neck, under the armpits and at the insides of wrists, elbows and knees, so that the pulse point will warm the perfume and release fragrance continuously. According to perfumer Sophia Grojsman behind the knees is the ideal point to apply perfume in order that the scent may rise.[30] The modern perfume industry encourages the practice of layering fragrance so that it is released in different intensities depending upon the time of the day. Lightly scented products such as bath oil, shower gel, and body lotion are recommended for the morning; eau de toilette is suggested for the afternoon; and perfume applied to the pulse points for evening.[31][self-published source] Cologne fragrance is released rapidly, lasting around 2 hours. Eau de toilette lasts from 2 to 4 hours, while perfume may last up to six hours.[32]

    A variety of factors can influence how fragrance interacts with the wearer’s own physiology and affect the perception of the fragrance. Diet is one factor, as eating spicy and fatty foods can increase the intensity of a fragrance.[33] The use of medications can also impact the character of a fragrance.[33] The relative dryness of the wearer’s skin is important, since dry skin will not hold fragrance as long as skin with more oil.[32]

    Describing a perfume

    [edit]

    An original bottle of Fougère Royale by Houbigant. Created by Paul Parquet in 1884, it is one of the most important modern perfumes and inspired the eponymous Fougère class of fragrances.
    Fragrance pyramid

    The precise formulae of commercial perfumes are kept secret. Even if they were widely published, they would be dominated by such complex ingredients and odorants that they would be of little use in providing a guide to the general consumer in description of the experience of a scent. Nonetheless, connoisseurs of perfume can become extremely skillful at identifying components and origins of scents in the same manner as wine experts.[34]

    The most practical way to start describing a perfume is according to the elements of the fragrance notes of the scent or the “family” it belongs to, all of which affect the overall impression of a perfume from first application to the last lingering hint of scent.[35][36]

    The trail of scent left behind by a person wearing perfume is called its sillage, after the French word for “wake“, as in the trail left by a boat in water.

    Fragrance notes

    [edit]

    Main article: Note (perfumery)

    Perfume is described in a musical metaphor as having three sets of notes, making the harmonious scent accord. The notes unfold over time, with the immediate impression of the top note leading to the deeper middle notes, and the base notes gradually appearing as the final stage. These notes are created carefully with knowledge of the evaporation process of the perfume.

    • Top notes: Also called the head notes. The scents that are perceived immediately on application of a perfume. Top notes consist of small, light molecules that evaporate quickly. They form a person’s initial impression of a perfume and thus are very important in the selling of a perfume. Examples of top notes include mint, lavender and coriander.
    • Middle notes: Also referred to as heart notes. The scent of a perfume that emerges just prior to the dissipation of the top note. The middle note compounds form the “heart” or main body of a perfume and act to mask the often unpleasant initial impression of base notes, which become more pleasant with time. Examples of middle notes include seawater, sandalwood and jasmine.
    • Base notes: The scent of a perfume that appears close to the departure of the middle notes. The base and middle notes together are the main theme of a perfume. Base notes bring depth and solidity to a perfume. Compounds of this class of scents are typically rich and “deep” and are usually not perceived until 30 minutes after application. Examples of base notes include tobacco, amber and musk.

    The scents in the top and middle notes are influenced by the base notes; conversely, the scents of the base notes will be altered by the types of fragrance materials used as middle notes. Manufacturers who publish perfume notes typically do so with the fragrance components presented as a fragrance pyramid,[37] using imaginative and abstract terms for the components listed.

    Olfactive families

    [edit]

    The grouping of perfumes can never be completely objective or definitive. Many fragrances contain aspects of different families. Even a perfume designated as “single flower” will have subtle undertones of other aromatics. There are hardly any true unitary-scent perfumes consisting of a single aromatic material.

    The family classification is a starting point to describe a perfume, but does not fully characterize it.

    Traditional categories

    [edit]

    A floral bouquet, Joy from Jean Patou

    The traditional categories which emerged around 1900:

    • Citrus: The oldest fragrance family that gave birth to lightweight eau de colognes. Development of newer fragrance compounds has allowed for the creation of more tenacious citrus fragrances. Examples: 4711, Guerlain’s Eau de Cologne Impériale, Penhaligon’s Quercus.
    • Single Floral: Fragrances dominated by the scent of a particular flower, i.e., rose, carnation, iris. In French this type of fragrance is called a soliflore. Example: Serge Lutens Sa Majeste La Rose.
    • Floral Bouquet: Compound of several flower scents. Examples: Houbigant Quelques FleursJean Patou Joy.
    • Amber or “Oriental”: Large class featuring sweet, slightly animalic scents of ambergris or labdanum, often combined with vanillatonka bean, flowers and woods. Can be enhanced by camphorous oils and incense resins, evoking Victorian era “Oriental” imagery. Traditional examples: Guerlain ShalimarYves Saint Laurent Opium, Chanel Coco Mademoiselle.[38]
    • Woody: Fragrances dominated by woody notes, typically agarwoodsandalwoodcedarwood, and vetiver. Patchouli, with its camphoraceous smell, is commonly found in these perfumes. Traditional examples: Myrurgia Maderas De OrienteChanel Bois des Îles. Modern: Balenciaga Rumba.
    • Leather: A family of fragrances featuring honeytobacco, wood and wood tars in the middle or base notes and a scent that alludes to leather. Traditional examples: Robert Piguet BanditBalmain Jolie Madame.
    • Chypre (IPA: [ʃipʁ]): Meaning Cyprus in French, this category is named after the François Coty‘s Chypre (1917), which was the first modern fragrance built on an accord of bergamotoakmoss, and labdanum. Example: Guerlain Mitsouko, Rochas Femme.
    • Fougère (IPA: [fu.ʒɛʁ]): Meaning fern in French, built on a base of lavendercoumarin and oakmoss, with a sharp herbaceous and woody scent. Named for Houbigant‘s landmark fragrance Fougère Royale, many men’s fragrances belong to this family. Modern examples: Fabergé BrutGuy Laroche Drakkar Noir, Penhaligon’s Douro.

    Modern

    [edit]

    Since 1945, new categories have emerged to describe modern scents, due to great advances in the technology of compound design and synthesis, as well as the natural development of styles and tastes:

    • Bright Floral: Combining single floral and floral bouquet traditional categories. Example: Estée Lauder Beautiful.
    • Green: Lighter, more modern interpretation of the Chypre type, with pronounced cut grass, crushed green leaf and cucumber-like scents. Examples: Estée Lauder AliageSisley Eau de Campagne, Calvin Klein Eternity.
    • AquaticOceanicOzonic: The newest category, first appearing in 1988 Davidoff Cool Water (1988), Christian Dior Dune (1991). A clean smell reminiscent of the ocean, leading to many androgynous perfumes. Generally contains calone, a synthetic discovered in 1966, or more recent synthetics. Also used to accent floral, oriental, and woody fragrances.
    • Fruity: Featuring fruits other than citrus, such as peach, cassis (blackcurrant), mango, passionfruit, and others. Example: Ginestet Botrytis.
    • Gourmand (French: [ɡuʁmɑ̃]): Scents with “edible” or “dessert-like” qualities, often containing vanilla, tonka bean, and coumarin, as well as synthetic components designed to resemble food flavors. Example: Thierry Mugler‘s Angel.

    Fragrance wheel

    [edit]

    Main article: Fragrance wheel

    Fragrance Wheel perfume classification chart, ver. 1983

    This newer classification method is widely used in retail and the fragrance industry, created in 1983 by the perfume consultant Michael Edwards. The new scheme simplifies classification and naming, as well as showing the relationships among the classes.[39]

    The five main families are FloralOrientalWoodyAromatic Fougère, and Fresh, the first four from the classic terminology and the last from the modern oceanic category. Each of these are divided into subgroups and arranged around a wheel. In this scheme, Chanel No.5, traditionally classified as an aldehydic floral, is placed under the Soft Floral sub-group, while amber scents are within the Oriental group. Chypre perfumes are more ambiguous, having affinities with both the Oriental and Woody families. For instance, Guerlain Mitsouko is under Mossy Woods, but Hermès Rouge, a more floral chypre, is under Floral Oriental.

    Aromatics sources

    [edit]

    Plant sources

    [edit]

    Citrus tree blossom
    Resins in perfumery include myrrh
    Frankincense

    Plants have long been used in perfumery as a source of essential oils and aroma compounds. These aromatics are usually secondary metabolites produced by plants as protection against herbivores, infections, as well as to attract pollinators. Plants are by far the largest source of fragrant compounds used in perfumery. The sources of these compounds may be derived from various parts of a plant. A plant can offer more than one source of aromatics, for instance the aerial portions and seeds of coriander have remarkably different odors from each other. Orange leaves, blossoms, and fruit zest are the respective sources of petitgrainneroli, and orange oils.

    • Bark: Commonly used barks include cinnamon and cascarilla. The fragrant oil in sassafras root bark is also used either directly or purified for its main constituent, safrole, which is used in the synthesis of other fragrant compounds.[40]
    • Flowers and blossoms: Undoubtedly the largest and most common source of perfume aromatics. Includes the flowers of several species of rose and jasmine, as well as osmanthusplumeriamimosatuberosenarcissusscented geraniumcassieambrette as well as the blossoms of citrus and ylang-ylang trees. Although not traditionally thought of as a flower, the unopened flower buds of the clove are also commonly used. Most orchid flowers are not commercially used to produce essential oils or absolutes, except in the case of vanilla, an orchid, which must be pollinated first and made into seed pods before use in perfumery.
    • Fruits: Fresh fruits such as applesstrawberriescherries rarely yield the expected odors when extracted; if such fragrance notes are found in a perfume, they are more likely to be of synthetic origin. Notable exceptions include blackcurrant leaf, litsea cubeba, vanilla, and juniper berry. The most commonly used fruits yield their aromatics from the rind; they include citrus such as orangeslemons, and limes. Although grapefruit rind is still used for aromatics, more and more commercially used grapefruit aromatics are artificially synthesized since the natural aromatic contains sulfur and its degradation product is quite unpleasant in smell.
    • Leaves and twigs: Commonly used for perfumery are lavender leaf, patchoulisagevioletsrosemary, and citrus leaves. Sometimes leaves are valued for the “green” smell they bring to perfumes, examples of this include hay and tomato leaf.
    • Resins: Valued since antiquity, resins have been widely used in incense and perfumery. Highly fragrant and antiseptic resins and resin-containing perfumes have been used by many cultures as medicines for a large variety of ailments. Commonly used resins in perfumery include labdanumfrankincense/olibanummyrrhbalsam of PerubenzoinPine and fir resins are a particularly valued source of terpenes used in the organic synthesis of many other synthetic or naturally occurring aromatic compounds. Some of what is called amber and copal in perfumery today is the resinous secretion of fossil conifers.
    • Rootsrhizomes and bulbs: Commonly used terrestrial portions in perfumery include iris rhizomesvetiver roots, various rhizomes of the ginger family.
    • Seeds: Commonly used seeds include tonka beancarrot seedcoriandercarawaycocoanutmegmacecardamom, and anise.
    • Woods: Highly important in providing the base notes to a perfume, wood oils and distillates are indispensable in perfumery. Commonly used woods include sandalwoodrosewoodagarwoodbirchcedarjuniper, and pine. These are used in the form of macerations or dry-distilled (rectified) forms.
    • Rom terpenes. Orchid scents

    Animal sources

    [edit]

    musk pod. Extensive hunting of male musk deer for their pods in recent history has resulted in the detriment of the species.
    Ambergris
    • Ambergris: Lumps of oxidized fatty compounds, whose precursors were secreted and expelled by the sperm whale. Ambergris should not be confused with yellow amber, which is used in jewelry. Because the harvesting of ambergris involves no harm to its animal source, it remains one of the few animalic fragrancing agents around which little controversy now exists.
    • Castoreum: Obtained from the odorous sacs of the North American beaver.
    • Civet: Also called civet musk, this is obtained from the odorous sacs of the civets, animals in the family Viverridae, related to the mongooseWorld Animal Protection investigated African civets caught for this purpose.[41]
    • Hyraceum: Commonly known as “Africa stone”, is the petrified excrement of the rock hyrax.[42]
    • Honeycomb: From the honeycomb of the honeybee. Both beeswax and honey can be solvent extracted to produce an absolute. Beeswax is extracted with ethanol and the ethanol evaporated to produce beeswax absolute.
    • Musk: Originally derived from a gland (sac or pod) located between the genitals and the umbilicus of the Himalayan male musk deer Moschus moschiferus, it has now mainly been replaced by the use of synthetic musks sometimes known as “white musk”.

    Other natural sources

    [edit]

    • Lichens: Commonly used lichens include oakmoss and treemoss thalli.
    • “Seaweed”: Distillates are sometimes used as essential oil in perfumes. An example of a commonly used seaweed is Fucus vesiculosus, which is commonly referred to as bladder wrack. Natural seaweed fragrances are rarely used due to their higher cost and lower potency than synthetics.

    Synthetic sources

    [edit]

    Main article: Aroma compound

    Many modern perfumes contain synthesized odorants. Synthetics can provide fragrances which are not found in nature. For instance, Calone, a compound of synthetic origin, imparts a fresh ozonous metallic marine scent that is widely used in contemporary perfumes. Synthetic aromatics are often used as an alternate source of compounds that are not easily obtained from natural sources. For example, linalool and coumarin are both naturally occurring compounds that can be inexpensively synthesized from terpenes. Orchid scents (typically salicylates) are usually not obtained directly from the plant itself but are instead synthetically created to match the fragrant compounds found in various orchids.

    One of the most commonly used classes of synthetic aromatics by far are the white musks. These materials are found in all forms of commercial perfumes as a neutral background to the middle notes. These musks are added in large quantities to laundry detergents in order to give washed clothes a lasting “clean” scent.

    The majority of the world’s synthetic aromatics are created by relatively few companies. They include:

    Each of these companies patents several processes for the production of aromatic synthetics annually.

    Characteristics

    [edit]

    Natural and synthetics are used for their different odor characteristics in perfumery

    NaturalsSynthetics
    VarianceNatural scents will vary from each supplier based on when and where they are harvested, how they are processed, and the extraction method itself. This means that a certain flower grown in Morocco and in France will smell different, even if the same method is used to grow, harvest, and extract the scent. As such, each perfumer will prefer flowers grown in one country over another, or one extraction method to the next. However, due to a natural scent’s mixed composition, it is easy for unscrupulous suppliers to adulterate the actual raw materials by changing its source (adding Indian jasmine into Grasse jasmine) or the contents (adding linalool to rosewood) to increase their profit margin.Much more consistent than natural aromatics. However, differences in organic synthesis may result in minute differences in concentration of impurities. If these impurities have low smell (detection) thresholds, the differences in the scent of the synthetic aromatic will be significant.
    ComponentsContains many different organic compounds, each adding a different note to the overall scent. Certain naturally derived substances have a long history of use, but this cannot always be used as an indicator of whether they are safe or not. Possible allergenic or carcinogenic compounds.Depending on purity, consists primarily of one chemical compound. Sometimes chiral mixtures of isomers, such as in the case of Iso E Super.[43] Due to the almost pure composition of one chemical compound, the same molecules found diluted in nature will have a different scent and effect on the body, if used undiluted.
    Scent uniquenessReminiscent of its originating material, although extraction may capture a different “layer” of the scent, depending on how the extraction method denatures the odoriferous compounds.Similar to natural scents yet different at the same time. Some synthetics attempt to mimic natural notes, while others explore the entire spectrum of scent. Novel scent compounds not found in nature will often be unique in their scent.
    Scent complexityDeep and complex fragrance notes. Soft, with subtle scent nuances. Highly valued for ideal composition.Pure and pronounced fragrance notes. Often monotonous in nature, yet reminiscent of other natural scents.
    PriceDependent on extraction method. More expensive, but not always, as prices are determined by the labor and difficulty of properly extracting each unit of the natural materials, as well as its quality. Typically the relationship between, longevity of a perfume, cost and the concentration of essential oils follows the graph below: This chart shows the typical relationship between price of perfume, its longevity and the concentration of essential oils.[44]Dependent on synthesis method. Generally cheaper, but not necessarily. Synthetic aromatics are not necessarily cheaper than naturals, with some synthetics being more costly than most natural ingredients due to various factors such as the long synthesis routes, low availability of precursor chemicals, and low overall yield. However, due to their low odor threshold, they should be diluted when making a perfume.

    Obtaining natural odorants

    [edit]

    Main article: Fragrance extraction

    Itar (herbal perfume) vendor on the street of Hyderabad, India, who can compose an original perfume for the customer

    Before perfumes can be composed, the odorants used in various perfume compositions must first be obtained. Synthetic odorants are produced through organic synthesis and purified. Odorants from natural sources require the use of various methods to extract the aromatics from the raw materials. The results of the extraction are either essential oils, absolutes, concretes, or butters, depending on the amount of waxes in the extracted product.[45]

    All these techniques will, to a certain extent, distort the odor of the aromatic compounds obtained from the raw materials. This is due to the use of heat, harsh solvents, or through exposure to oxygen in the extraction process which will denature the aromatic compounds, which either change their odor character or renders them odorless.

    • Maceration/Solvent extraction: The most used and economically important technique for extracting aromatics in the modern perfume industry. Raw materials are submerged in a solvent that can dissolve the desired aromatic compounds. Maceration lasts anywhere from hours to months. Fragrant compounds for woody and fibrous plant materials are often obtained in this manner as are all aromatics from animal sources. The technique can also be used to extract odorants that are too volatile for distillation or easily denatured by heat. Commonly used solvents for maceration/solvent extraction include ethanehexane, and dimethyl ether. The product of this process is called a “concrete.”
      • Supercritical fluid extraction: A relatively new technique for extracting fragrant compounds from a raw material, which often employs Supercritical CO2. Due to the low heat of process and the relatively nonreactive solvent used in the extraction, the fragrant compounds derived often closely resemble the original odor of the raw material.
      • Ethanol extraction: A type of solvent extraction used to extract fragrant compounds directly from dry raw materials, as well as the impure oily compounds materials resulting from solvent extraction or enfleurage. Ethanol extraction from fresh plant materials contain large quantities of water, which will also be extracted into the ethanol.
    • Distillation: A common technique for obtaining aromatic compounds from plants, such as orange blossoms and roses. The raw material is heated and the fragrant compounds are re-collected through condensation of the distilled vapor.
    An old perfume still on display at Fragonard
      • Steam distillation: Steam from boiling water is passed through the raw material, which drives out their volatile fragrant compounds. The condensate from distillation are settled in a Florentine flask. This allows for the easy separation of the fragrant oils from the water. The water collected from the condensate, which retains some of the fragrant compounds and oils from the raw material is called hydrosol and sometimes sold. This is most commonly used for fresh plant materials such as flowersleaves, and stems.
      • Dry/destructive distillation: The raw materials are directly heated in a still without a carrier solvent such as water. Fragrant compounds that are released from the raw material by the high heat often undergo anhydrous pyrolysis, which results in the formation of different fragrant compounds, and thus different fragrant notes. This method is used to obtain fragrant compounds from fossil amber and fragrant woods where an intentional “burned” or “toasted” odor is desired.
      • Fractionation: Through the use of a fractionation column, different fractions distilled from a material can be selectively excluded to modify the scent of the final product. Although the product is more expensive, this is sometimes performed to remove unpleasant or undesirable scents of a material and affords the perfumer more control over their composition process.
    • Expression: Raw material is squeezed or compressed and the essential oils are collected. Of all raw materials, only the fragrant oils from the peels of fruits in the citrus family are extracted in this manner since the oil is present in large enough quantities as to make this extraction method economically feasible.
    • Enfleurage: Absorption of aroma materials into solid fat or wax and then extraction of odorous oils with ethyl alcohol. Extraction by enfleurage was commonly used when distillation was not possible because some fragrant compounds denature through high heat. This technique is not commonly used in the modern industry due to prohibitive costs and the existence of more efficient and effective extraction methods.[35]

    Fragrant extracts

    [edit]

    Indian Patchouli – Tincture

    Although fragrant extracts are known to the general public as the generic term “essential oils“, a more specific language is used in the fragrance industry to describe the source, purity, and technique used to obtain a particular fragrant extract. Of these extracts, only absolutesessential oils, and tinctures are directly used to formulate perfumes.

    • Absolute: Fragrant materials that are purified from a pommade or concrete by soaking them in ethanol. By using a slightly hydrophilic compound such as ethanol, most of the fragrant compounds from the waxy source materials can be extracted without dissolving any of the fragrantless waxy molecules. Absolutes are usually found in the form of an oily liquid.
    • Concrete: Fragrant materials that have been extracted from raw materials through solvent extraction using volatile hydrocarbons. Concretes usually contain a large amount of wax due to the ease in which the solvents dissolve various hydrophobic compounds. As such concretes are usually further purified through distillation or ethanol based solvent extraction. Concretes are typically either waxy or resinous solids or thick oily liquids.
    • Essential oil: Fragrant materials that have been extracted from a source material directly through distillation or expression and obtained in the form of an oily liquid. Oils extracted through expression are sometimes called expression oils.
    • Pomade: A fragrant mass of solid fat created from the enfleurage process, in which odorous compounds in raw materials are adsorbed into animal fats. Pommades are found in the form of an oily and sticky solid.
    • Tincture: Fragrant materials produced by directly soaking and infusing raw materials in ethanol. Tinctures are typically thin liquids.[35]

    Products from different extraction methods are known under different names even though their starting materials are the same. For instance, orange blossoms from Citrus aurantium that have undergone solvent extraction produces “orange blossom absolute” but that which have been steam distilled is known as “neroli oil”.

    Composing perfumes

    [edit]

    Perfume formula

    Perfume compositions are an important part of many industries ranging from the luxury goods sectors, food services industries, to manufacturers of various household chemicals. The purpose of using perfume or fragrance compositions in these industries is to affect customers through their sense of smell and entice them into purchasing the perfume or perfumed product. As such there is significant interest in producing a perfume formulation that people will find aesthetically pleasing.

    The perfumer

    [edit]

    Main article: Perfumer

    The Perfume Maker, by Rodolphe Ernst

    The job of composing perfumes that will be sold is left up to an expert on perfume composition or known in the fragrance industry as the perfumer. They are also sometimes referred to affectionately as a “Nez” (French for nose) due to their fine sense of smell and skill in smell composition.

    The composition of a perfume typically begins with a brief by the perfumer’s employer or an outside customer. The customers to the perfumer or their employers, are typically fashion houses or large corporations of various industries.[46] The perfumer will then go through the process of blending multiple perfume mixtures and sell the formulation to the customer, often with modifications of the composition of the perfume. The perfume composition will then be either used to enhance another product as a functional fragrance (shampoosmake-updetergents, car interiors, etc.), or marketed and sold directly to the public as a fine fragrance.[34]

    Technique

    [edit]

    Paper blotters (fr:mouillettes) are commonly used by perfumers to sample and smell perfumes and odorants.

    Although there is no single “correct” technique for the formulation of a perfume, there are general guidelines as to how a perfume can be constructed from a concept. Although many ingredients do not contribute to the smell of a perfume, many perfumes include colorants and antioxidants to improve the marketability and shelf life of the perfume, respectively.

    Basic framework

    [edit]

    Perfume oils usually contain tens to hundreds of ingredients and these are typically organized in a perfume for the specific role they will play. These ingredients can be roughly grouped into four groups:

    • Primary scents (Heart): Can consist of one or a few main ingredients for a certain concept, such as “rose”. Alternatively, multiple ingredients can be used together to create an “abstract” primary scent that does not bear a resemblance to a natural ingredient. For instance, jasmine and rose scents are commonly blends for abstract floral fragrances. Cola flavourant is a good example of an abstract primary scent.
    • Modifiers: These ingredients alter the primary scent to give the perfume a certain desired character: for instance, fruit esters may be included in a floral primary to create a fruity floral; calone and citrus scents can be added to create a “fresher” floral. The cherry scent in cherry cola can be considered a modifier.
    • Blenders: A large group of ingredients that smooth out the transitions of a perfume between different “layers” or bases. These themselves can be used as a major component of the primary scent. Common blending ingredients include linalool and hydroxycitronellal.
    • Fixatives: Used to support the primary scent by bolstering it. Many resins, wood scents, and amber bases are used as fixatives.

    The top, middle, and base notes of a fragrance may have separate primary scents and supporting ingredients. The perfume’s fragrance oils are then blended with ethyl alcohol and water, aged in tanks for several weeks and filtered through processing equipment to, respectively, allow the perfume ingredients in the mixture to stabilize and to remove any sediment and particles before the solution can be filled into the perfume bottles.[47]

    Fragrance bases

    [edit]

    A “perfume organ”, where perfumers utilize hundreds of essences, in Grasse, France

    Instead of building a perfume from “ground up”, many modern perfumes and colognes are made using fragrance bases or simply bases. Each base is essentially modular perfume that is blended from essential oils and aromatic chemicals, and formulated with a simple concept such as “fresh cut grass” or “juicy sour apple”. Many of Guerlain‘s Aqua Allegoria line, with their simple fragrance concepts, are good examples of what perfume fragrance bases are like.

    The effort used in developing bases by fragrance companies or individual perfumers may equal that of a marketed perfume, since they are useful in that they are reusable. On top of its reusability, the benefit in using bases for construction are quite numerous:

    1. Ingredients with “difficult” or “overpowering” scents that are tailored into a blended base may be more easily incorporated into a work of perfume
    2. A base may be better scent approximations of a certain thing than the extract of the thing itself. For example, a base made to embody the scent for “fresh dewy rose” might be a better approximation for the scent concept of a rose after rain than plain rose oil. Flowers whose scents cannot be extracted, such as gardenia or hyacinth, are composed as bases from data derived from headspace technology.
    3. A perfumer can quickly rough out a concept from a brief by combining multiple bases, then present it for feedback. Smoothing out the “edges” of the perfume can be done after a positive response.

    Reverse engineering

    [edit]

    Creating perfumes through reverse engineering with analytical techniques such as Gas chromatography–mass spectrometry (GC/MS) can reveal the “general” formula for any particular perfume. The difficulty of GC/MS analysis arises due to the complexity of a perfume’s ingredients. This is particularly due to the presence of natural essential oils and other ingredients consisting of complex chemical mixtures. However, “anyone armed with good GC/MS equipment and experienced in using this equipment can today, within days, find out a great deal about the formulation of any perfume… customers and competitors can analyze most perfumes more or less precisely.”[48]

    Antique or badly preserved perfumes undergoing this analysis can also be difficult due to the numerous degradation by-products and impurities that may have resulted from breakdown of the odorous compounds. Ingredients and compounds can usually be ruled out or identified using gas chromatograph (GC) smellers, which allow individual chemical components to be identified both through their physical properties and their scent. Reverse engineering of best-selling perfumes in the market is a very common practice in the fragrance industry due to the relative simplicity of operating GC equipment, the pressure to produce marketable fragrances, and the highly lucrative nature of the perfume market.[47]

    [edit]

    An assorti of counterfeit perfumes (in a “kiosk” store)

    It is doubtful whether perfumes qualify as appropriate copyright subject matter under the US Copyright Act. The issue has not yet been addressed by any US court. A perfume’s scent is not eligible for trademark protection: the scent serves as the functional purpose of the product.[49]

    In 2006 the Dutch Supreme Court granted copyright protection to Lancôme‘s perfume Tresor (Lancôme v. Kecofa).

    The French Supreme Court has twice taken the position that perfumes lack the creativity to constitute copyrightable expressions (Bsiri-Barbir v. Haarman & Reimer, 2006; Beaute Prestige International v. Senteur Mazal, 2008).[49]

    Sometimes, a knock-off perfume would use an altered name of the original perfume (for instance, now-discontinued Freya by Oriflame perfume has a similar-designed copy produced as “Freyya“).

    It is still questionable if perfume’s “functional purpose” can be protected with technical patent (one which lasts 15 years). Apparently,[according to whom?] Russian “Novaya Zarya” labels their colognes as “hygienic lotions” for a similar reason. A counterexample: NovZar’s more-than-century-old Shipr chypre and Troinoi cologne are being produced by other companies in Russia in similar bottles.

    Numbered perfumery, “analogs”

    [edit]

    A different kind of copying perfumes is known in ex-USSR countries as “номерная парфюмерия” (literally “numbered perfumery”):

    A “number-making” company with perfumery equipment would use their own, one-style-for-all cheap bottle; de jure labeling a knock-off perfume as an “aroma in the direction of [the well-known perfume]” or a “version” of certain branded perfume. This way, the production costs of initially cheap scents are reduced, since the bottle is used neither for plain counterfeiting nor for subtle re-designing.

    The questionable part of numbered perfumery naming is the idea to openly mark perfume #XXX (say, #105) as either “type” or “version”, or “аромат направления” (literally “aroma in the direction of”) of a well-known perfum.[50]

    • Resellers in offline stores (in malls, airport shops) can offer “fillable” perfumery, sometimes using weasel wording to justify the price.
    • Such perfumes usually get three-digit numbers as an officially registered name, which is stickered to the bottles.
    • When it comes to propellant, a “number” usually has an alcohol base [almost] without stabilization (which may give strong “alcohol base stench”, altering perfume’s scent into the “smell of cheapness” phenomenon).
      • To avoid this, many “numbers” can be made with (di)propylenglicol base and come as “perfume oil(s)”. PG or DPG based numbered perfumery comes in 50ml plastic bottles and is purposed for tiny rollers; (D)PG is not usable in spray bottles (while not affected by the “smell of cheapness” issue nonetheless). Some companies offer all of their own “numbers” in both alcohol based and (D)PG based variants.

    In small online “bulk”, however (in purchases over 5000RUB), a whole 100ml bottle of such perfume (or 50ml bottle of “scent oil” of same “direction”) costs only around 6 EUR.

    Health and environmental issues

    [edit]

    Perfume ingredients, regardless of natural or synthetic origins, may all cause health or environmental problems when used. Although the areas are under active research, much remains to be learned about the effects of fragrance on human health and the environment.

    Immunological; asthma and allergy

    [edit]

    Evidence in peer-reviewed journals shows that some fragrances can cause asthmatic reactions in some individuals, especially those with severe or atopic asthma.[51] Many fragrance ingredients can also cause headaches, allergic skin reactions[52] or nausea.[53][54][55]

    In some cases, an excessive use of perfumes may cause allergic reactions of the skin. For instance, acetophenoneethyl acetate[citation needed] and acetone[47] while present in many perfumes, are also known or potential respiratory allergens. Nevertheless, this may be misleading, since the harm presented by many of these chemicals (either natural or synthetic) is dependent on environmental conditions and their concentrations in a perfume. For instance, linalool, which is listed as an irritant, causes skin irritation when it degrades to peroxides, however the use of antioxidants in perfumes or reduction in concentrations can prevent this. As well, the furanocoumarin present in natural extracts of grapefruit or celery can cause severe allergic reactions and increase sensitivity to ultraviolet radiation.[56]

    Some research on natural aromatics have shown that many contain compounds that cause skin irritation.[57] However some studies, such as IFRA’s research claim that opoponax is too dangerous to be used in perfumery, still lack scientific consensus.[58] It is also true that sometimes inhalation alone can cause skin irritation.[citation needed]

    Patch test

    A number of national and international surveys have identified balsam of Peru, often used in perfumes, as being in the “top five” allergens most commonly causing patch test reactions in people referred to dermatology clinics.[59][60][61] A study in 2001 found that 3.8% of the general population patch tested was allergic to it.[62] Many perfumes contain components identical to balsam of Peru.[63]

    Balsam of Peru is used as a marker for perfume allergy. Its presence in a cosmetic is denoted by the INCI term Myroxylon pereirae.[64] Balsam of Peru has been banned by the International Fragrance Association since 1982 from use as a fragrance compound, but may be present as an extract or distillate in other products, where mandatory labelling is not required for usage of 0.4% or less.[63]

    Carcinogenicity

    [edit]

    There is scientific evidence that nitro-musks such as musk xylene could cause cancer in some specific animal tests. These reports were evaluated by the EU Scientific Committee for Consumer Safety (SCCS, formerly the SCCNFP[65]) and musk xylene was found to be safe for continued use in cosmetic products.[66] It is in fact part of the procedures of the Cosmetic Regulation in Europe that materials classified as carcinogens require such a safety evaluation by the authorities to be allowed in cosmetic consumer products.

    Although other ingredients such as polycyclic synthetic musks, have been reported to be positive in some in-vitro hormone assays,[67][68] these reports have been reviewed by various authorities. For example, for one of the main polycyclic musks Galaxolide (HHCB) these reviews include those of the EU Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety,[69] the EU’s Priority Substances Review,[70] the EU Scientific Committee on Health and Environmental Risk,[71] and more recently also the US EPA.[72] The outcome of all of these reviews over the past decade or so is that there are no safety concerns for human health. Reviews with similar positive outcomes also exist for another main polycyclic musk (AHTN)—for instance, on its safe use in cosmetics by the EU.[73]

    Many natural aromatics, such as oakmoss absolutes,[57][74] basil oil, rose oil and many others contain allergens or carcinogenic compounds, the safety of which is either governed by regulations (e.g. allowed methyl eugenol levels in the EU Cosmetics Regulation (Entry 102, Annex III of the EU Cosmetics Regulation.[75]) or through various limitations set by the International Fragrance Association.[76]

    Environmental

    [edit]

    Perfume stall in Cairo

    Pollution

    [edit]

    Synthetic musks are pleasant in smell and relatively inexpensive, as such they are often employed in large quantities to cover the unpleasant scent of laundry detergents and many personal cleaning products. Due to their large-scale use, several types of synthetic musks have been found in human fat and milk,[77] as well as in the sediments and waters of the Great Lakes.[78]

    These pollutants may pose additional health and environmental problems when they enter human and animal diets.

    Species endangerment

    [edit]

    The demands for aromatic materials such as sandalwood, agarwood, and musk have led to the endangerment of these species, as well as illegal trafficking and harvesting.

    Safety regulations

    [edit]

    The US FDA controls the safety of perfumes through their ingredients and requires that they be tested to the extent that they are Generally recognized as safe (GRAS). Due to the need for protection of trade secrets, companies rarely give the full listing[citation needed] of ingredients regardless of their effects on health.[dubious – discuss]

    In the EU, as from 11 March 2005, the mandatory listing of a set of 26 recognized fragrance allergens was enforced.[79] The requirement to list these materials is dependent on the intended use of the final product. The limits above which the allergens are required to be declared are 0.001% for products intended to remain on the skin, and 0.01% for those intended to be rinsed off. This has resulted in many old perfumes like chypres and fougère classes, which traditionally make use of oakmoss extract, being reformulated.[citation needed]

    Preserving perfume

    [edit]

    Perfumes in a museum
    Potpourri, by Edwin Austin Abbey, 1899

    Fragrance compounds in perfumes will degrade or break down if improperly stored in the presence of heatlightoxygen, and extraneous organic materials. Proper preservation of perfumes involves keeping them away from sources of heat and storing them where they will not be exposed to light. An opened bottle will keep its aroma intact for several years, as long as it is well stored.[34] However, the presence of oxygen in the head space of the bottle and environmental factors will in the long run alter the smell of the fragrance.

    Perfumes are best preserved when kept in light-tight aluminium bottles or in their original packaging when not in use, and refrigerated to relatively low temperatures: between 3–7 °C (37–45 °F). Although it is difficult to completely remove oxygen from the headspace of a stored flask of fragrance, opting for spray dispensers instead of rollers and “open” bottles will minimize oxygen exposure. Sprays also have the advantage of isolating fragrance inside a bottle and preventing it from mixing with dust, skin, and detritus, which would degrade and alter the quality of a perfume.

    There exist several archives and museums devoted to the preservation of historical perfumes, namely the Osmothèque, which stocks over 3,000 perfumes from the past two millennia in their original formulations. All scents in their collection are preserved in non-actinic glass flasks flushed with argon gas, stored in thermally insulated compartments maintained at 12 °C (54 °F) in a large vault.[80]